I love writing alteration posts for my designs. A benefit of making your own clothes is customizing how it fits your own body. I like to offer ideas on how to alter my designs to fit you better.
Mittens – fitting ideas: The mittens are written with 1″ ease (helpful article on Craftsy’s website about ease). I personally like a bit of room in my mittens and wrote the pattern to reflect that. However, if you know that you’d liked a closer fit here’s a super simple way to change it to your liking.
If you want to alter the medium or large sizes:
- Basically, to make them tighter without losing the height: Choose the smaller size (i.e. choose Medium if you have large hands or choose Small if you have medium hands) stitch directions and work the rounds directions as they are written in the pattern.
- As an example, say you measure your hands at 7.5″ circumference, but you still want the length that the medium size provides. You’ll then follow all the stitch counts for the pattern’s small size. Stitch counts corresponding to size are listed in this manner: xx (xx, xx). These stitch numbers are parallel to the sizes listed in the pattern as S (M, L). This translates to: you’ll cast on the amount of stitches listed as the small size, but then when the pattern splits for specific round (or length) instructions you’ll work the sections for the medium size instead of the section designated for the small section. Your stitch count will remain the same as the small, but you’ll work more length into the pattern.
- There is a special split-off section the mittens that accounts for length. it is listed as “Medium and Large Sizes Only” and “Small Size Only”. For this example, when you reach the split-off section in the pattern, simply follow the “Medium and Large Sizes Only” instructions (instead of the instructions for “Small Size Only”) since you are working the rounds for the Medium and Large sizes. You will then follow the instructions as a medium size. Then after you have worked the “Medium and Large Sizes Only” section, move on to the next section (“All sizes”) and return to the small size instructions: xx (xx, xx). And you’ll continue to follow the small-size instructions for the rest of piece.
If you want to alter the Small size for a tighter fit:
- If you decide that you’d like a tighter fit for the small-sized mittens, I suggest that you remove no more that 4 stitches from the palm side of the mittens, this will make the circumference of the mittens a little over 7″ (in theory, since I haven’t made this alteration myself). I think that if you cast on 40 stitches and follow the patterns as written (with the exception of the CO number), that should give you a tighter fit for the smaller size.
If anyone tries this alteration and I missed a section of the pattern that needs altering to account for the missing stitches, let me know and we’ll work it out together so other people can benefit. Also, if this doesn’t make sense, but you want to try it out, contact me and I’ll rework the instructions.
Tam – fitting ideas:
Make the Tam into a beanie/toque: I really love the Celtic cable pattern for Taranis, and I really want to make a beanie out of the design too! I am a runner, so beanies are well used. I decided I would make some alterations so I could use the cable charted panels, but shape the hat for a beanie instead of a tam. Here are beanie alterations if this interests you as well (I am providing one size that should fit approximately 20″ – 24″ head circumference):
- Brim: CO 120 with smaller needle, follow instructions for brim.
- Body: Switch to larger needles and DO NOT work the increase row. Instead skip to Rnd 1 and work the following:
- Rnd 1: *K 6, PM, work across the 24 sts of Rnd 1 of Taranis Right chart, rep from * 3 more times.
- Rnd 2: *K to M, SM, work across next rnd from Taranis Right chart, rep from * 3 more times.
- Rnds 3-41: Rep Rnd 2 – 136 sts.
- NOTE: These exact directions should give you a hat that is 8.75″ in height. If you want to shorten it to 8.5″: when you get to Rnd 25 work Rnd 1 from Taranis Right Middle chart instead of Rnd 25 from Taranis Right chart, and then skip to Rnd 30 from Taranis Right chart to continue with pattern.
- Crown Shaping: this is where things get a little tricky.
- Rnd 42: *K to 2 sts before M, K2tog, SM, work across Rnd 42 (or Rnd 46 for repeat) from Taranis Right chart, rep from * 3 more times – 4 sts dec’d.
- Rnd 43: *K to M, SM, work across next rnd from Taranis Right chart, rep from * 3 more times.
- Rnd 44: *K to 2 sts before M, K2tog, SM, work across next rnd from Taranis Right chart, rep from * 3 more times – 4 sts dec’d
- Rnd 45: *K to M, SM, work across next rnd from Taranis Right chart, rep from * 3 more times.
- Rnds 46-49: Repeat Rnds 42-45 once more -100 sts.
- This next round you’ll have to move around the marker a little to achieve the stitch. You’ll be working a k2tog with the stitch before the marker and the stitch after the marker (which is the also the first stitch in the cable pattern). What I recommend is knit up to the stitch before the m, then slip the stitch to the right needle, remove marker, then slip the stitch back on the the left needle and place marker. Then you will have the marker in the right place and you can work a k2tog.
- Rnd 50: *K to 1 st before M, K2tog, work across Rnd 50 from Taranis Right chart, rep from * 3 more times – 4 sts dec’d.
- Rnd 51: K across Rnd 51 from Taranis Right chart, SM, rep from * 3 more times – 16 sts dec’d.
- Rnds 52-56: Repeat Rnd 51 five more times, make sure to replace Rnd 51 from Taranis Right chart with the next corresponding rnd from the chart – 48 sts.
- Rnd 57: *K2tog, repeat from * to end of rnd – 24 sts.
- Rnd 58: Repeat Rnd 57 – 12 sts.
- Then follow the instructions immediately listed after Rnd 60 from the Taranis Hat instructions (re: pulling the stitches together), and the block the hat and weave in ends.
If you decide to attempt the beanie, let me know how it turns out. I have yet to make the beanie, but I really want to because I think it would be just as pretty as the tam. Happy knitting, friends!